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Next-Generation Chemical Peels for Acne
New Chemical Peels Reduce Oil That
Leads to Acne
Source: WebMD
Date: 07/30/2004
A new generation of chemical peels used to treat
acne, fine lines, wrinkles and sun damage are putting these exfoliating
solutions back on the radar screen.
Today, there are newer, gentler peels that
can be used alone, together, or with other skin-rejuvenating treatments
such as lasers or microdermabrasion, researchers said today at
the annual summer meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology.
"It's like a rebirth or a second youth,"
says Neil S. Sadick, MD, a clinical professor of dermatology at
the Weill Medical College of Cornell University in New York. "The
major uses of chemical peels are basically the treatment of pre-skin
cancer, photoaged skin, wrinkle reduction, excess pigmentation,
and acne, plus they can be very helpful in the treatment of acne
scars," Sadick says.
"One of the major things that is new in
2004 is using peels as combined modality with lasers or microdermabrasion,"
a treatment in which the dermatologist sandblasts tiny crystals
across the face to remove dead skin, he says.
In addition, "at-home regimens are popular,
and today most patients should be on an at-home peeling regimen
on a nightly basis because it is no longer enough to just do a
peel in the office," he says.
How Deep Is Your Peel?
"Superficial peels are more en vogue at
this time because they require virtually no downtime and produce
good results for the early signs of aging," Sadick says.
Medium-depth peels go slightly deeper
than their superficial counterparts, while deep peels penetrate
virtually all of the skin's many layers.
"In 2004, we use multiple types of chemical
peels on each person," he says. For example, "we can
apply a medium-strength peel to the midface a superficial peel
on the neck or chest and a deeper peel around the eyes or mouth."
When choosing which peeling agent to use, doctors
often consider such factors as how dark the skin is, how much
sun damage there has been, and how oily the skin is, he says.
"The new kids on the block are beta-hydroxy
acid peels, which are helpful on dark skin and significant acne,"
he explains. Such peels reduce the amount of sebum, or oil, trapped
in the tiny hair follicles of the skin that produce acne.
"Chemical peels still play an important
role in practice," he says. "They are underutilized
but getting a second rebirth."
Diane S. Berson, MD, assistant professor of
dermatology at the Weill Medical College in New York, agrees that
chemical peels can play a role in the treatment of female acne
-- especially light peeling with salicylic acid, a beta-hydoxy
acid peel.
"These agents get into the sebaceous follicles
so after the peel, the pores look smaller because they have been
unclogged, and since salicylic acid is the main ingredient in
aspirin, they can also calm inflammation," she says.
Other treatments for acne include skin care
(cleansers, toners, moisturizers, sun protection, and cosmetics),
medications, and hormonal treatments.
"Hormonal treatments [birth control
pills] for acne are very helpful for all women with acne,"
Berson says. Most contain combinations of the hormones estrogen
and progestin, which clear up acne by decreasing the production
and availability of the hormone testosterone, which is known to
stimulate the sebaceous glands to produce acne-causing oil.
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